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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.